Today I shot a grey/color chart with the Panasonic GH3 at ISO 200, my new on-camera light “Kaiser Star Cluster” and the 12-35mm at f4.0, showing different picture settings at 0 0 0 0 with manual in-camera white balance matched to 5600K.
Based on the dynamic range that is visible on the grey chart, I’d choose NATURAL or PORTRAIT as a base for my future projects.
Furthermore I find the NATURAL and STANDARD colors most pleasing and accurate by default whereas NATURAL has a little less blue shift.
I additionally learned that with a correct manual white balance the camera adds a little too much blue so I’m going to consider that in my camera settings.
Today I shot a grey/color chart with the Panasonic G6 and the 12-35mm at different picture settings with manual in-camera white balance.
Here you can download white balance presets for Resolve based on each of the exported settings after I adujsted the grey chart shots for each possible picture setting at 0 0 0 0. Maybe this could be handy when you were able to control the lighting but did not bring a greycard to your set.
Based on the dynamic range that is visible on the grey chart, I’d choose NATURAL or PORTRAIT as a base for my future projects. Comparing the color charts I find the reds in PORTRAIT much more present compared to NATURAL.
As long as I still have the three beauties from Panasonic at home, I thought about doing a comparison to decide which one I’ll keep, and because some others may ask themselves a similar question: Here it is, the first excerpt of my comparison experiments:
All Shots are done with the Panasonic 20mm f1.7 at f3.2 with shutter speed set to1/25th at AVCHD 24p, Standard picture profile at 0 0 0 0 and manual WB 10000K.
I found it very hard to match the cameras via their color profiles so I decided to use STD 0000 on all of them.
For post production in After Effects and Premiere, I decided to convert all shots to DNxHD first.
Sorry for the poor white balance, but I just had one LED spot that was dimmable and no proper video light. I then decided to leave it as it is and did not apply any color grading in post.
I’m going to publish a comparison at ISO 800 with some more individually optimized settings on each camera and – as far as my skills go – some optimization in post.
Compared to the hacked GH2 I almost fell off my chair looking at the footage of my newly bought Panasonic G6 because there was heavy grain.
I figured out that setting i.Dynamic to “high”, like I knew it from the hacked GH2, caused most of the noise. Turning this off increased the image quality a lot.
Depending on how deep you’d like to digg in post production, you can set noise reduction to 0 or -1 and use some of the in camera noise reduction. I also encountered good results with NR set to -3 and optional post processing.
Currently using STD -3 -3 -1 -3 with Panasonic lenses. STD 0 0 0 0 works well, too.
You can see a comparison of the two settings here:
A more detailed video on the G6 vs. GH2 (hacked) vs. GH3 will follow.
What test setups do you use and how do you measure exposure while testing different settings?
I find the in-camera exposure metering a little uncomfortable. Maybe I’ll try Zebra as orientation so I get the most light without overexposing.